Hardware Hacking, Quadcopter, Technology

Building a Quadcopter: Part 2

Continuing from here, this is Part 2 of the ‘Building a Quadcopter’ series.

In the last post, my friend and I had built most of the quadcopter frame, and were awaiting parts from the store. As of now, we have the frame built. Most of the parts have shipped in as well.

This is what was on that parts list:

Click to see a close-up

  • Battery – Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 35~70C Lipo Pack
  • HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V2.1
  • Motors (4) – Turnigy D2836/8 1100KV Brushless Outrunner Motor
  • Electronic Stoppers (one for each motor) – Turnigy AE-30A Brushless ESC
  • 10-inch props – remember to get 2 clockwise and 2 anti-clockwise
  • Receiver and Transmitter – HobbyKing HK6DF 2.4Ghz FHSS 6Ch Tx & Rx
  • Connectors/Cables

Electrical Work

The control board is not necessary. It comes with some gyros that provide information to the ESCs and motors for stabilization purposes. You could instead use Arduino with some firmware – that’s our plan for the second one anyway.

Here is what the connection order looks like. You will of course have to multiply the ESCs and Motors with 4, as well the Receiver to Board connections.

Connection Hierarchy

Frame Work

We still had to drill holes in the frame for the bolts.

Drilling holes for bolts

The cutting became so loud, that we had to move outdoors.

Outdoors

After creating mount braces for the motors, we ended up with the following. Now all that remains is connecting all the wires, and then we should be good to go.

Current State

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3 thoughts on “Building a Quadcopter: Part 2

  1. Pingback: Building a Quadcopter: Part 1 « Abhishek Bhatnagar

  2. Haley says:

    Nice frame!

    I’m planning to use the same motor and prop like yours but will 2s battery pack be enough to drive?

    • Are you planning on using the same ESC?

      Your battery cell # should be dependant on the Input Voltage of your ESC.
      So in my case, this is what the ESC says:

      > Input Voltage: 2-4 cells lithium battery or 5-12 cells NIMH battery.

      So a 2S will indeed work, but result in fewer RPM, which is not necessarily a bad thing. If your target payload is about 2x your frame weight, then a 2S should suffice.

      In the case of a 2S, the battery will also be lighter, and according to some sourcess, also less likely to fail.

      I’d say go for it, if your ESC allows it.

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